[vc_row disable_element=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1621451157815{padding-top: 100px !important;padding-bottom: 100px !important;background-image: url(https://cicadaaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/about-bg.jpg?id=3009) !important;}” el_class=”full-width about-number-counters”][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-users”][vc_column_text]
150
Happy Clients[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-trophy”][vc_column_text]
98
Awards Won[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-thumbs-up”][vc_column_text]
9999
Projects Done[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-coffee”][vc_column_text]
66689
Cups Coffee[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row disable_element=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1621451164217{padding-top: 60px !important;padding-bottom: 60px !important;background-color: #f2f2f2 !important;}” el_class=”about-content2″][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
CUSTOMER SUPPORT
[/vc_column_text][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-smile-o” color=”white”][vc_column_text]Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Quisque rutrum pellesque imperdiet[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
WEB DESIGN
[/vc_column_text][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-html5″ color=”white”][vc_column_text]Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Quisque rutrum pellesque imperdiet[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
WORDPRESS THEMES
[/vc_column_text][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-link” color=”white”][vc_column_text]Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Quisque rutrum pellesque imperdiet.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
LOGO DESIGN
[/vc_column_text][vc_icon icon_fontawesome=”fa fa-camera” color=”white”][vc_column_text]Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Quisque rutrum pellesque imperdiet[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row disable_element=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1621451173060{padding-top: 80px !important;padding-bottom: 40px !important;}” el_class=”about-content3″][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
John Doe
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Praesent eu nisi ac mi malesuada vestibulum.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
MIKE DOE
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Praesent eu nisi ac mi malesuada vestibulum.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
JANE SMITH
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Praesent eu nisi ac mi malesuada vestibulum.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/4″][vc_column_text]
dolor sit
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Praesent eu nisi ac mi malesuada vestibulum.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row full_width=”stretch_row_content” disable_element=”yes” css=”.vc_custom_1626131529427{background-color: #e6e6e6 !important;}”][vc_column][vc_tta_accordion active_section=”1″ title=”FAQ”][vc_tta_section title=”QUESTION – Why is my amplifier blowing fuses??” tab_id=”1621890998457-5ea9eb5f-edd6″][vc_column_text]
There could be a lot of reasons for this. Typically, if it blows instantly, for example – when you replace the fuse, this means that a device in the amplifier, typically a switcher in the power supply or an output device is bad. If, on the other hand, it blows after playing for a while. Then it’s a whole different issue. This could mean that either the gains are set too high, or the load impedance is too low, and/or the power/ground connections needs to be checked. Another problem could be that you are using CCA power/ground wire and not oxygen free wire (Or OFC). This makes a huge difference.
Never…. repeat. Never use CCA wire in any audio system… ever!
If you are blowing fuses, and it takes a while, meaning more than 30 seconds Then you need to start testing for voltage drops. Check at the battery, before and after the fuse, and at the amplifier power input. Two tests – Before powering up the system (at idle) and at full power (playing it LOUD) what is the voltage at these 4 points? Anything bigger than 0.7 volt drop in voltage is not good. Voltage drops can cause over-heating and excessive distortion. Fuses are there to protect the BIKE…not the amplifier(s) The fuse should be ½ MAX current draw of the system. 1000 watts would be 60 amperes. 500 watts would be 30 amperes and so on and so forth. 90% of the time it is a voltage drop or the charging system just can’t keep up with the audio system. Testing is the only way to know for sure. NOTE: replacing the smaller value fuse with a larger value fuse will cause all kinds of issues. If there are voltage drops because of using CCA wire, then the wire will get REALLY HOT. Possible causing a fire. Since the power wire is extremely close to the fuel tank you need to be extra careful. Voltage drops equals heat. NOT a good combination. Test. Don’t just guess what is going on! TEST!!!![/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”QUESTION – Why is my amplifier getting Hot???” tab_id=”1621890998494-71be47ac-8bcd”][vc_column_text]
There could be many reasons why the amplifier gets hot. First question is, does it get hot instantly or does it take a while? This is a very important question. If it gets hot very quickly, then there’s probably a speaker that is shorted out or almost ready to short out. If the amplifier gets hot quickly but works and THEN thermals off (like 10-20 minutes) then…the first Test is checking the impedance of your speakers. At this time, you should probably push the cone in and out EVENLY (and slowly) to see if there’s any shorts when you move it. Second test…is there a voltage drop? Get your meter out and see if the volage drops rapidly when “pounding your system”?? If so, there could be an issue with your battery and or charging system. Or bad connections, OR you’re using CCA wire (NEVER use CCA wire! It voids our warranty on CICADA amplifiers if you do!!!) Get that checked out. Voltage drops of MORE than 0.7 volt is NO good!!!
The next thing to do is readjust gains. Make sure they are set “correctly”. This is usually the number one question tech support ever gets. Is how to set gains correctly. This is actually very easy. But some people try to make it very difficult. The problem is there are so many people on the Internet spouting all kinds of ways to do it. Some champion that you use a voltmeter, or you use a scope or use a DD1+ or many other ways to do this. I’m old school. The easiest way is to set it up by ear. The issue is you’re dealing with music, not sine wave, so setting up gains with Sinewave is a waste of time. It works, but. You’ll have a super clean. Low distortion system that does not “Hit”. Sounds good, just doesn’t play very loud. That’s because music is dynamic and has a crest factor of 10-20 dB (depending on the music, who recorded it, etc.) It is super easy to set gains. At least if you do it my way. Use some dynamic music of YOUR choice, something you listen to all the time and something that is NOT super compressed, meaning NOT some 128mps MP3 recording your brother gave you, (or…that you yanked – legally… off the internet. Wink Wink…Right..)
- Play the music your chosen in whatever head unit you are using. A head unit with MORE voltage out is ALWAYS the best choice. And BTR’s (Blue Tooth Receivers), are not a great choice as they typically are less than 2 volts out. Whatever you use, it is what it is. Gain setting will NOT change UNLESS you change source. Meaning if you head unit has BT built-in ….does the BT have the same signal strength (voltage) as CD or AUX. For example, let’s say that CD output off you radio is 5 volts out (measured with a scope and a 1kHz Sinewave). What does BT put out (voltage wise) at the same volume setting as the CD? Or AUX? If these are ALL different output voltages, then you have ISSUES!! Because it will be very difficult to set gain. IF you ONLY use BT (which is typical) then set gains up using BT and again your music selection.
- Now go to your amplifier(s) While playing YOUR music set the High Pass levels. The assumption here is you’ve preset crossovers already. IF not, do it NOW before setting gains. With music playing on your Mids/Highs – adjust gain UP till the speakers distort. One there, turn it back a hair.
- Turn the system off and then back on again to a normal level. Now set rear speaker gains. And then on to sub (if you have one)
- That’s it! Wasn’t that EASY!
Listen IF you want to set your gains with a DD1+ or a voltmeter or a scope…I don’t care. Not my system. Look I’ve set gains on 1,000’s of IASCA cars over the last 20 yrs. Helped write the damn rule books. Trained 10’s of thousands of installers all over the world. Hell, I have 5 Oscilloscopes here in my office? And how many do you have?? So knock yourself out. See if it is any better or quicker? (NOPE!!)[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”QUESTION – Why is it that my system doesn’t play louder?” tab_id=”1621891250010-94938eca-c88f”][vc_column_text]
This is like asking why aren’t you prettier or handsomer? Or bigger. Or taller? Why is there air? There could be a lot of reasons, and this is a VERY complicated question. But let’s assume that for this conversation that you bought an amplifier that’s theoretically equal in power to the speaker power handling. So, for example. You bought 100-Watt amplifier. And 100 Watt rated speakers. This is a pretty good assumption and typical. Matched? Right?? You’ve had it installed by a HD customizer/audio retailer/installer you trust. But…for whatever reason it JUST doesn’t “Get it”. It plays well, BUT it SHOULD be louder. Hey, you’ve matched everything what else could you have done! RIGHT?? Not quite that easy. Nice try though. A LOT of things come into play. What is the sensitivity of your speakers? What is the power handling of the speakers? Really? Not the advertised. How much power is the amplifier? REALLY? No BS!! So here is the deal…higher sensitivity speakers play louder. More power (to a point) plays louder. Matching? Not really a thing. Especially under “Music conditions”. Sinewave, YES. But…do YOU listen to sinewaves for music?? Really??? Don’t think so.
This is an age-old question/comment. Not easily answered. Except ..there are some rules (Physics).
- Once your speaker, ANY speaker, reaches “Xmax” (Maximum, Mechanical Excursion) there is NO more output. Meaning it won’t play any louder. No matter what!!
- Then there is the issue of HOW big is the voice coil. The bigger the voice coil the higher the power “handling”. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT! No matter what the BS power rating is on a speaker or the giftbox or internet, the voice coil REALLY determines the power handling. Not what the marketing guy writes for specs!!! A 6 X9 with a 1 inch (or even 1.5 inch) voice coil will NOT be 250 W RMS!!! No way Jose!!!!
- High pass ALL speakers on your HD bike. PERIOD!! This will help both increase output (volume) and lower distortion. Midbass drivers should be High Passed at 80 -120Hz @ 12dB per octave or FASTER (meaning steeping slopes) Subwoofers (that’s pretty funny on a HD!!) should be High passed AS WELL as low passed (meaning a bandpass) just really low. Like 40-50 Hz for the high pass and 80-120Hz for the low pass. This creates a Bandpass of 40-120Hz and PROTECTS your sub (from you!!) and increase output level.
WE need an example here to show what is REALLY happening:
Let’s say your speakers have a sensitivity of 92 dB 1W/1M. That is good and typical of coax speakers with dome tweeters. But CoAx Horns (like our CH series) are well over 97 dB 1W/1M sensitivity (and at higher frequencies over 107dB) So that is roughly 7-10 dB louder than your 92 dB 1W/1m sensitivity speakers. QUITE a bit louder. Roughly 10 times louder. This means you would need 10 times the power you already have to get even close to the CoAx horn speakers’ levels (loudness) 10 times! So, let’s continue with that logic. Let’s say you had our CX125.4 amplifier connected. Which is about 100 watts RMS per channel X 4. So, to get YOUR system with this amp and your speakers, to play as loud as our CoAx horns speakers play (with the same CX125.4 amplifier) you would need roughly 4,000 watts RMS to do that!! Which also means you need roughly 10 times the current to drive this much power or 466 amps of continuous current!! On a Harley Davidson motorcycle? Wow, whatever you are smoking …I want some!!!! Now are you seeing the issue with how to get louder on your bike. It is a combination of things, power, SENSITIVITY, current draw. This all comes into play. Speaker sensitivity is basically FREE energy. Power from an amplifier is NOT Free. It takes current to make power. Current that you DON’T have on a stock HD bike!!.[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”QUESTION – Why is my amplifier getting Hot???” tab_id=”1621891466287-1c947a30-e51c”][vc_column_text]
There could be many reasons why the amplifier gets hot. First question is, does it get hot instantly or does it take a while? This is a very important question. If it gets hot very quickly, then there’s probably a speaker that is shorted out or almost ready to short out. If the amplifier gets hot quickly but works and THEN thermals off (like 10-20 minutes) then…the first Test is checking the impedance of your speakers. At this time, you should probably push the cone in and out EVENLY (and slowly) to see if there’s any shorts when you move it. Second test…is there a voltage drop? Get your meter out and see if the volage drops rapidly when “pounding your system”?? If so, there could be an issue with your battery and or charging system. Or bad connections, OR you’re using CCA wire (NEVER use CCA wire! It voids our warranty on CICADA amplifiers if you do!!!) Get that checked out. Voltage drops of MORE than 0.7 volt is NO good!!!
The next thing to do is readjust gains. Make sure they are set “correctly”. This is usually the number one question tech support ever gets. Is how to set gains correctly. This is actually very easy. But some people try to make it very difficult. The problem is there are so many people on the Internet spouting all kinds of ways to do it. Some champion that you use a voltmeter, or you use a scope or use a DD1+ or many other ways to do this. I’m old school. The easiest way is to set it up by ear. The issue is you’re dealing with music, not sine wave, so setting up gains with Sinewave is a waste of time. It works, but. You’ll have a super clean. Low distortion system that does not “Hit”. Sounds good, just doesn’t play very loud. That’s because music is dynamic and has a crest factor of 10-20 dB (depending on the music, who recorded it, etc.) It is super easy to set gains. At least if you do it my way. Use some dynamic music of YOUR choice, something you listen to all the time and something that is NOT super compressed, meaning NOT some 128mps MP3 recording your brother gave you, (or…that you yanked – legally… off the internet. Wink Wink…Right..)
- Play the music your chosen in whatever head unit you are using. A head unit with MORE voltage out is ALWAYS the best choice. And BTR’s (Blue Tooth Receivers), are not a great choice as they typically are less than 2 volts out. Whatever you use, it is what it is. Gain setting will NOT change UNLESS you change source. Meaning if you head unit has BT built-in ….does the BT have the same signal strength (voltage) as CD or AUX. For example, let’s say that CD output off you radio is 5 volts out (measured with a scope and a 1kHz Sinewave). What does BT put out (voltage wise) at the same volume setting as the CD? Or AUX? If these are ALL different output voltages, then you have ISSUES!! Because it will be very difficult to set gain. IF you ONLY use BT (which is typical) then set gains up using BT and again your music selection.
- Now go to your amplifier(s) While playing YOUR music set the High Pass levels. The assumption here is you’ve preset crossovers already. IF not, do it NOW before setting gains. With music playing on your Mids/Highs – adjust gain UP till the speakers distort. One there, turn it back a hair.
- Turn the system off and then back on again to a normal level. Now set rear speaker gains. And then on to sub (if you have one)
- That’s it! Wasn’t that EASY!
Listen IF you want to set your gains with a DD1+ or a voltmeter or a scope…I don’t care. Not my system. Look I’ve set gains on 1,000’s of IASCA cars over the last 20 yrs. Helped write the damn rule books. Trained 10’s of thousands of installers all over the world. Hell, I have 5 Oscilloscopes here in my office? And how many do you have?? So knock yourself out. See if it is any better or quicker? (NOPE!!)[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”QUESTION – Why is it that my system doesn’t play louder?” tab_id=”1621891741364-e9d56d23-aff3″][vc_column_text]
This is like asking why aren’t you prettier or handsomer? Or bigger. Or taller? Why is there air? There could be a lot of reasons, and this is a VERY complicated question. But let’s assume that for this conversation that you bought an amplifier that’s theoretically equal in power to the speaker power handling. So, for example. You bought 100-Watt amplifier. And 100 Watt rated speakers. This is a pretty good assumption and typical. Matched? Right?? You’ve had it installed by a HD customizer/audio retailer/installer you trust. But…for whatever reason it JUST doesn’t “Get it”. It plays well, BUT it SHOULD be louder. Hey, you’ve matched everything what else could you have done! RIGHT?? Not quite that easy. Nice try though. A LOT of things come into play. What is the sensitivity of your speakers? What is the power handling of the speakers? Really? Not the advertised. How much power is the amplifier? REALLY? No BS!! So here is the deal…higher sensitivity speakers play louder. More power (to a point) plays louder. Matching? Not really a thing. Especially under “Music conditions”. Sinewave, YES. But…do YOU listen to sinewaves for music?? Really??? Don’t think so.
This is an age-old question/comment. Not easily answered. Except ..there are some rules (Physics).
- Once your speaker, ANY speaker, reaches “Xmax” (Maximum, Mechanical Excursion) there is NO more output. Meaning it won’t play any louder. No matter what!!
- Then there is the issue of HOW big is the voice coil. The bigger the voice coil the higher the power “handling”. THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT! No matter what the BS power rating is on a speaker or the giftbox or internet, the voice coil REALLY determines the power handling. Not what the marketing guy writes for specs!!! A 6 X9 with a 1 inch (or even 1.5 inch) voice coil will NOT be 250 W RMS!!! No way Jose!!!!
- High pass ALL speakers on your HD bike. PERIOD!! This will help both increase output (volume) and lower distortion. Midbass drivers should be High Passed at 80 -120Hz @ 12dB per octave or FASTER (meaning steeping slopes) Subwoofers (that’s pretty funny on a HD!!) should be High passed AS WELL as low passed (meaning a bandpass) just really low. Like 40-50 Hz for the high pass and 80-120Hz for the low pass. This creates a Bandpass of 40-120Hz and PROTECTS your sub (from you!!) and increase output level.
WE need an example here to show what is REALLY happening:
Let’s say your speakers have a sensitivity of 92 dB 1W/1M. That is good and typical of coax speakers with dome tweeters. But CoAx Horns (like our CH series) are well over 97 dB 1W/1M sensitivity (and at higher frequencies over 107dB) So that is roughly 7-10 dB louder than your 92 dB 1W/1m sensitivity speakers. QUITE a bit louder. Roughly 10 times louder. This means you would need 10 times the power you already have to get even close to the CoAx horn speakers’ levels (loudness) 10 times! So, let’s continue with that logic. Let’s say you had our CX125.4 amplifier connected. Which is about 100 watts RMS per channel X 4. So, to get YOUR system with this amp and your speakers, to play as loud as our CoAx horns speakers play (with the same CX125.4 amplifier) you would need roughly 4,000 watts RMS to do that!! Which also means you need roughly 10 times the current to drive this much power or 466 amps of continuous current!! On a Harley Davidson motorcycle? Wow, whatever you are smoking …I want some!!!! Now are you seeing the issue with how to get louder on your bike. It is a combination of things, power, SENSITIVITY, current draw. This all comes into play. Speaker sensitivity is basically FREE energy. Power from an amplifier is NOT Free. It takes current to make power. Current that you DON’T have on a stock HD bike!!.[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”QUESTION – Why is my Cicada Audio RR1T/RR075T Tweeter(s) shutting off at high levels?” tab_id=”1621891745041-6c147c71-7a11″][vc_column_text]
If you’re Cicada Audio RR1T or RRO75T, tweeters are seemingly shutting off at high volume levels, but come back after a few seconds…. you’re not blowing up the tweeters, but they are turning off – at least momentarily. That certainly seems somewhat strange for sure. Let’s explain what’s going on. What’s happening is this – Inside the cool passive crossover case there is a capacitor, a coil (inductor) and a “PolyCell” device. This Poly cell is basically a resistor at high volumes. Amplifiers put out AC volts. If you exceed a certain AC voltage, like at high volume levels – you’ll have higher AC voltage coming out of your amplifier (at least peaks anyway). The tweeter will turn off because the resistance gets so high that this “PolyCell” gets HOT and literally “opens”. This means It removes the connection to the tweeter – momentarily. The tweeter doesn’t blow up. But it shuts off. If this is what you’re experiencing.
The reason? You’re exceeding the maximum SPL level of the tweeter. Or you’re clipping the amplifier hard. One of the two. Now….how to fix? First thing is if it is the RR1T or RR075T tweeters that are being used make sure you have high pass on you DSP set at least 6,000Hz @ 12 dB or are using our crossovers. BUT NOT BOTH. Either go FULLY active or use our passive crossover, NOT BOTH. With 50 WRMS these “horn tweeters (ours are called Ring radiators) will play OVER 125dB at above 6kHz! That is REALLY loud at only 3 ft (or less) from the tweeter on your bike.
Let’s put his into perspective: The loudest concert you EVER heard was NOT 125dB above 6kHz!. Not possible. Assuming you were 50 ft away from the stage and sound system that would mean the tweeters are doing OVER 139dB on stage 3 ft from the musicians!!! And woofers would be at least 6 dB louder, or 145dB!!! Seriously???? You may THINK it was that loud. BUT…did you measure it?? I can tell you everyone would be deaf for weeks after that concert and have SERIOUS hearing loss about 6kHz. The US government has monitored live music for years and says that typical indoor concerts average better 85-105dB. And for every 3dB more it is TWICE as loud. And 10 dB is 10 times louder. So needless to say, 125dB is REALLY loud on a bike. Especially above 6kHz.[/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][vc_tta_section title=”Question. Why do I keep blowing speakers?” tab_id=”1621891997667-fe54ff1d-4897″][vc_column_text]
That’s actually a really good question. Most people think it is because the speakers have gone bad, that. their junk, bad product…etc. Or It wasn’t rated at the correct power or something to that effect. Some of that is true, but the real reason the speakers get blown is because consumers push their speakers past their limits. Speaker distorts and the consumer says “f%$k it! Its rated at 100 watts RMS and I am only “pushing” 75 watts. They should be able to take it…F$#k it!! And just keep turning the volume up, until they “burn up” (blow) 90% of the speakers blown are not actually blown. The voice calls are burned. This burning is caused by the amplifier which produces AC voltage. This AC voltage keeps heating the voice call up, which is simply very thin copper wire wound on a cardboard tube or an aluminum tube or Kapton tube that is glued? And what happens is the glues start breaking down. The voice coil windings (copper) starts heating up and bubbling. Little thin copper wire and AC voltage with current (yes amplifiers do that!!) that coil of copper wire gets REALLY hot (you’ve smelled woofers cooking I am pretty sure in your lifetime) Then the stereo is turned off, the glues dry with bumps on them from the bubbling and when the stereo is turned on again…they start rubbing in the voice coil gap. This rubbing causes the speaker to slow down its movement, which causes more heat because the pumping in and out effect of the speaker moving is cooling the voice coil. After designing and building speakers for over 40 years I can honestly say I have NEVER seen a “Blown” speaker. Burned? 1,000’s! 10’s of 1,000’s. Remember that YOU are the GAS pedal, and YOU are the BRAKE. No MATTER what the power rating of the speaker OR the amplifier…if you hear clipping (distortion) TURN IT DOWN!!! Otherwise, YOU are the reason the speaker(s) get “Blown”. No other reason!!![/vc_column_text][/vc_tta_section][/vc_tta_accordion][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1626115018838{margin-top: 10px !important;margin-bottom: 10px !important;}”][vc_column][vc_custom_heading text=”FREQUENTLY ASK QUESTION” font_container=”tag:h2|text_align:center|color:%23000000″ use_theme_fonts=”yes”][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1626129202049{padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #828282 !important;}”]
WHY IS MY AMPLIFIER BLOWING FUSES??[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1626131463079{margin-top: 50px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1626130408357{padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #828282 !important;}”]
WHY IS IT THAT MY SYSTEM DOESN’T PLAY LOUDER?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1626131478340{margin-top: 50px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1626130187980{padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #828282 !important;}” el_id=”q2″]
WHY IS MY AMPLIFIER GETTING HOT???
[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1626131485783{margin-top: 50px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1626130971859{padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #828282 !important;}”]
WHY IS MY CICADA AUDIO RR1T/RR075T TWEETER(S) SHUTTING OFF AT HIGH LEVELS?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1626131494203{margin-top: 50px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1626131436846{padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #828282 !important;}”]
WHY DO I KEEP BLOWING SPEAKERS?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row css=”.vc_custom_1626131494203{margin-top: 50px !important;margin-bottom: 50px !important;}”][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text css=”.vc_custom_1657232425777{padding-top: 10px !important;padding-right: 10px !important;padding-bottom: 10px !important;padding-left: 10px !important;background-color: #828282 !important;}”]
I GET A WEIRD POP OR SQUEAL ON TURN ON?[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][vc_column width=”2/3″][vc_column_text]
IF YOU HAVE A “BURNING” QUESTION NO ONE SEEMS ABLE TO
ANSWER… ASK ME!! GIVE ME A TRY. WHAT COULD IT HURT?
(CLICK HERE)
[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][vc_column width=”1/6″][/vc_column][/vc_row]
